The National Museum of Capodimonte

Some pictures from the National Museum of Capodimonte in Naples, Italy.

Kid's playing soccer in front of the Capodimonte Museum.

The Best Pizza in the World

Piazza Garibaldi is the hub in Naples. Everything goes through Garibaldi. Just a couple of blocks west of this . . .
. . . is this, L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele, from whence comes the best pizza in Naples, locals will tell you, and therefore in the world.

Church of Saint Caterina a Formiello

Just off Piazza Garibaldi, behind Porto Capuana, is the unheralded 16th century Church of Caterina a Formiello. In the 19th century, it was turned over to the Italian Army and converted into a wool factory. It has since been re-consecrated.

The Saint Caterina of this church is Saint Catherine of Alexandria. The picture of her on the left is by Raffael; on the right, Caravaggio.

Formiello is a word that comes from Latin. It refers to the situation of the church and its formerly attached Celestine convent next to aqueducts, which have since been removed.

There is its cupola behind Porto Capuana.

Porto Capuana in Naples, Italy

Wedged into the Naples metropolis just off Piazza Garibaldi is Porto Capuana, a gate in the wall built by Ferdinand I of Argon in 1484.
Originally, it was a gate in the city walls, which were subsequently removed, leaving behind the gate which stands today as an informal triumphal arch, homage to bygone days when Naples was the second largest city in Europe, behind Paris, and the continent's intellectual capital.
The gray cupola behind the gate is Santa Caterina a Formiello.The two towers of the gate are Honor and Virtue.

The Best Sfogliatelle Calde in the World

This is Piazza Garibaldi. In the background is the Central Train Station (Napoli Centrale) under Vesuvio's ever-watchful eye. Speaking of eye, the moon is hitting it in this photo like a big pizza pie, as it were.

Piazza Garibaldi is a big, ugly, dangerous parking lot. In the winter it can be quite daunting, seeming like one of Dante's circles of hell, with fires burning in drums putting off the odor of brimstone. Not so on this bell' giorno, however.

Right around the corner from this . . .
. . . is this, Sfogliatelle Calde dei Fratelli Attanasio. This is the best place for sfogliatelle calde in Napoli, locals will tell you, and therefore in the world.
And what are sfogliatella calda, you ask?
I'll tell you what sfogliatella calda are.
This is a sfogliatella calda, produced to perfection in the ovens of the Brothers Attanasio behind this beautiful you woman.
"Calda" means "hot" and "foglio" means "page" or "leaf." It's a type of pastry served piping hot with a dusting of confectioner's sugar.
It's filled with ricotta cheese, which can get quite hot, indeed. This one burned my tongue because I was too hasty in biting into it. That's my thumb in the picture. Thank goodness I finally quit biting my nails.

Here are directions from the train station and a link to the website of the Fratelli Attanasio, where you'll find lots more pictures, and videos demonstrating how the pastries are made.

The Most Famous Coffee Bar in the World

This is Piazza Plebescito in the historical center of Naples. Notice the three Italian cadets in their hats and capes, adding a bit of modern-day old-world charm. Between this . . .
and this . . . Here you see La Gallaria and Il Teatro San Carlos, the second most venerated opera house in the world (behind La Scala in Milan) . . .
is this, Gambrinus, the most famous coffee bar in the world.
Like most things in Naples, it has a charm that's both lazy and chaotic at the same time.
Waiters in tuxedos serve up the coffee, drinks and desserts, both inside the cafe and outside on the sidewalk.
I baristi are friendly and all of them speak English.
Patrons have a bit of water and a coffee and move off into the evening for a passigiata (stroll) before dinner.
The money moves, fast and furious, at the till.
A side room, with table service.
Another side room (you can see the photographer, if you look close enough).
A waiter talks to a girl in front of the pastry case.
Lots of pies and cakes.
A pie.
A cake.
An ice cream cake.
A young patron.

Il Vero Bar del Professore in Naples

Il Professore, the locals will tell you, is the best coffee in Naples (and thus in the world), though its next door neighbor, Gambrinus, is more famous.

A typical Saturday evening at Il Professore in the historical center of Naples.
I barististi serve it up at a furious pace, with patrons lined up three deep for the duration.
Add a pastry if you like . . .
But Il Professore's specialty is the Nocciolato (which means litterally "nutted"). Suffused with hazelnut creme, it is ultra sweet and rich. The pastry best be plain.
I ragazzi di Napoli enjoy the first evening without rain in a while in the waning days of February at Il Professore's sidewalk cafe.

Photos of Italy

Photo of Vesuvio at dawn.

Accidental photo taken in St. Peter's Square, Vatican City.

Stylized photo of a fish in the fountain at the Royal Gardens, Caserta, Italy.

Stylized photo of Castel Sant' Angelo in Rome.

A canal in Venice.

Trulli houses, near Bari.

Albergo Lopez, along the coast between Naples and Sorrento, at dusk.

Stylized view of Vesuvio.