Tuesday, March 2, 2010

The Best Sfogliatelle Calde in the World

This is Piazza Garibaldi. In the background is the Central Train Station (Napoli Centrale) under Vesuvio's ever-watchful eye. Speaking of eye, the moon is hitting it in this photo like a big pizza pie, as it were.

Piazza Garibaldi is a big, ugly, dangerous parking lot. In the winter it can be quite daunting, seeming like one of Dante's circles of hell, with fires burning in drums putting off the odor of brimstone. Not so on this bell' giorno, however.

Right around the corner from this . . .
. . . is this, Sfogliatelle Calde dei Fratelli Attanasio. This is the best place for sfogliatelle calde in Napoli, locals will tell you, and therefore in the world.
And what are sfogliatella calda, you ask?
I'll tell you what sfogliatella calda are.
This is a sfogliatella calda, produced to perfection in the ovens of the Brothers Attanasio behind this beautiful you woman.
"Calda" means "hot" and "foglio" means "page" or "leaf." It's a type of pastry served piping hot with a dusting of confectioner's sugar.
It's filled with ricotta cheese, which can get quite hot, indeed. This one burned my tongue because I was too hasty in biting into it. That's my thumb in the picture. Thank goodness I finally quit biting my nails.

Here are directions from the train station and a link to the website of the Fratelli Attanasio, where you'll find lots more pictures, and videos demonstrating how the pastries are made.

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